East River, New York — Cupcake Afloat

The big deal for boats transiting the East River is that all the water funneling southwest through Long Island Sound tries to force its way down the river as the tide rises in the Sound, and all the water funneling into New York Harbor tries to force its way up the river when the tide turns at the Battery.

The crux of the whole situation is Hell Gate, where the tide can run up to 5 knots. If the tide is adverse, the passage becomes impossible and dangerous for a pokey sailboat like Cupcake. If the tide is favorable, the journey is swift and easy.

We wanted swift and easy, that’s why the timing was so critical leaving City Island. Cutting to the chase: we timed it perfectly.

The trip began with passage under the Throg’s Neck Bridge – our first fixed bridge. Although the span is something like 135’ high (Cupcake needs 55’) our smallest crew member was nervous as we passed under. No problem. Plenty of space.

After passing the Throg’s Neck, we saw a big ugly barge-thing tied up along shore. A little Googling told us the barge was a prison barge (the defense attorney in me is appalled that such things exist). Seems to be an 800 bed, 161 million dollar cost-saving brainstorm.

The next sight down the river on the penal theme was Riker’s Island. 10,000 inmates. 85% are being held pre-trial. More than 9,000 assaults each year. Top ten most dangerous jails in the nation. Cost to incarcerate one inmate there for a year: $201,000. There has got to be a better use of our money, a better way to treat our people. Everyone should be appalled at these numbers.

A few bends in the river and we started seeing the Manhattan skyline more and more clearly. The view is spectacular and exciting. I’ve been nervous about passing through NYC, but Ellen was very eager to have the experience. As is generally the case, she was right, I was wrong.

The tide was with us through Hell Gate and we moved along at 6-7 knots. Passed Roosevelt Island and the United Nations, saw the Chrysler and Empire State Buildings, dodged a few big barges, tugs, and ferryboats. It was a busy, exciting trip.

As we got closer to the Battery at the tip of Manhattan, the water traffic got crazier and crazier. Ferries, seaplanes, motor yachts, all sorts of vessels coming and going, throwing big wakes, generally ignoring little Cupcake the country mouse.

And then we saw the Statue of Liberty. We explained to Moss that the United States used to welcome immigrants and refugees, and that the Statue of Liberty was the tangible representation of that welcoming nature. The statue, at least, is still standing.

Crossing New York Harbor to our anchorage at Liberty State Park was a hot and hectic ride, but once we got to our anchorage, everything was as calm as could be. It is amazing that there is a pond-still anchorage so close to NYC and we were the only boat anchored there. As the afternoon turned to evening jet skis and little fishing boats came to the boat ramp to haul out. A young woman on a paddle board came by at dusk and got a gentle chiding from Ellen about being a woman alone on the water. And another reminder to wear a life jacket.

The night was calm and restful after an eventful day.

Hooked at last. This is the view we had at anchor after passing through NYC. The torchlight at night was a beautiful beacon.

View of the Battery as we steamed towards the Statue of Liberty.