Another cold front — Cupcake Afloat

Someone tell Ringo and Paul we’ve found it.

Last night I had an odd dream where I realized I needed to polish my shoes because they were very scuffed. Perhaps I had the dream in response to the fact that I wore my Crocs yesterday and it was the first time I’ve worn shoes of any sort in days and days. In any event, when I awoke we had more pressing matters to address.

The storm that brought all the snow to the Northeast this weekend sent us scurrying for protection from strong winds clocking (as they do in these fronts) from the east trade winds to the south, west, and then north. The past two weeks have been delightful with their light easterlies. We were free to dinghy all over, discover great snorkeling spots, try out new anchorages, hang out with friends. So last night’s winds out of the southeast then southwest, with the rain, thunder, and lightning, and gusts into the high 20s or low 30s were a real departure from what we’ve grown to expect.

Built another voodoo catamaran. This one is made from flip flops. Both lefties.

This morning after monitoring the short wave weather report I went on deck to see where we were lying at anchor. When we set the anchor two days ago in our spot to the east of Big Majors, the wind was more or less out of the south, blowing us to the north. So this morning when I saw the shore no more than 50’ off our stern, it was clear both that the wind had come out of the north and that it was time to depart. The limestone rocks called iron shore look very imposing when you see them up close from the deck of your boat. We do not think our anchor dragged, just that our radius, 180º from where we started, brought us closer to land than we thought prudent.

Deferring breakfast, we upped anchor and scooted around to the other side of Big Majors in anticipation of the easterly winds coming after the front. We enjoyed maybe two hours of choppy seas as the wind worked its way behind the island and we finally got protection from the aftermath of the front. It was fun watching other boats scurry around to find protection as well. Fortunately we got here early enough to snag a choice spot up close to shore and Cruisers’ Beach where we hope to make a beach fire some evening this week.
The plan was to make a fire ashore last night, on the other side of the island. But the weather turned nasty well before that plan could come to fruition so we postponed the event. Unfortunately, we were not able to enjoy the full moon and lunar eclipse last night because of all the clouds. I suppose we must now wait until the next lunar eclipse in 2021.

Today it is plenty sunny so we are making water and charging the batteries from the solar panels. The charge meter read 13.4 amps at 1pm today. That’s the highest output I can remember seeing since last summer. So we have turned the corner on winter. Whew.

Because Ellen and Moss wanted to go to shore to make art and play, I’ve stayed aboard to keep tabs on the watermaker. I also used my time to straighten up the cabin…we are definitely in Winnebago mode, not sailboat mode.

The other day we had a pair of shark buddies hanging around the anchor. I’m swimming to shore after I post this so if this is the last you hear from me, you will know why.

Taking advantage of the peace and quiet, I tried a bit of meditation. It’s a treat to meditate on Cupcake with the sound of lapping waves (and, to be fair, the grumbling of the watermaker). I have meditated in empty conference rooms at courthouses (quiet as a tomb), in the bathtub last winter when I was nursing a rib I cracked after falling on the ice, sitting on the rug in front of a fire crackling in the fireplace, on the deck of Cupcake while anchored at Seal Bay on Vinalhaven Island in Penobscot Bay. As much as I would enjoy a bath, meditating down here beats just about anywhere else.

Barracuda (sphyraena barracuda) about 4’ long.

We anticipate strong winds all week and may have to endure a rougher anchorage on Friday as the next front whirls its way through, but are pretty pleased with our decision to enjoy these weeks around Staniel Cay. There’s plenty to do, lots of great snorkeling and spearfishing, nice people all around, and some of the clearest water in the world.

A few days ago we joined Jennabird for a dinghy trip to the south end of Staniel Cay. Mr. Flowerpot is so much slower than their dinghy, they took Moss in the hopes that we could plane and keep up. Had a fine time chasing each other and exploring the clear water and quiet cove at that end of the island.

We also enjoyed a movie night on their boat. Between the movie, the popcorn, the company, we all had a fantastic time.

Crazy as it sounds, we have begun discussing the return trip. Initially we thought it would involve a 5-day offshore trip from here to North Carolina. But the more we thought about how much we are not looking forward to enduring that voyage, the more we realized that some time in mid-April, a one or two day sail back to Florida (which Ellen, Moss, and I can easily do without additional crew members to help out, unlike the 5-day trip) and then a leisurely journey back up the ICW is a far more appealing option. Nothing’s set in stone, but we are all feeling much more relaxed about the homeward trip.

Moss and Ellen exploring an uninhabited island.

We keep going back to Thunderball Grotto. That place is super cool.

These turtles are the quickest swimmers we see around here. Crazy fast.